Kévin Garcia at Cap Estel: the perfect alchemy of quiet strength and an exclusive setting
Kévin Garcia, a chef who is in tune with his environment © Cap Estel
In the quiet seclusion of Cap Estel, framed by sea and rocks, Kévin Garcia is conducting a gastronomic symphony, in which each note rings with the serenity of the setting and the chef’s exceptional skill.
Just walk into the Cap Estel kitchen and you will immediately understand the essence of Kévin Garcia. It’s the middle of the service, but there is total calm in this culinary temple, as the chef moves with the precision of an orchestra conductor interpreting his score. No shouting, no agitation – just total concentration and the ‘quiet strength‘ that he claims as his personal signature.
The calm is not a front. It comes naturally to the 38-year-old from Alsace, forged by the Germanic discipline of his native region and rounded by the Mediterranean flavours of his father’s Spanish origins. Trained to excel by Jean-Yves Schillinger at JY’S in Colmar, then by Joël Robuchon in Paris, he continued his rise with Frédéric Anton at the Pré Catelan, before becoming executive chef at the Jules Verne restaurant at the top of the Eiffel Tower.
“When you come to work in the morning, you don’t have a 2-hour commute. Inevitably, that gives you a sense of calm,” he says as he looks out at the sea from the kitchens. This communion with the location is not to be underestimated: it is entirely reflected on the plate.
Two gardens, a unique cuisine
Kévin Garcia’s culinary philosophy is based on a fascinating concept: Cap Estel has two gardens. The first is on land, where basil, tarragon, mint and lovage thrive in the Côte d’Azur sunshine. The second is in the water, stretching out in front of the hotel, with local fish of incomparable freshness. “I see the produce coming out of the water,” enthuses the chef, who deals directly with the local fishermen.
His approach is reflected in a menu where seafood has a leading role, quite naturally. The gamberoni, served as a tomato-basil consommé and then roasted with tarragon sofrito, is a perfect illustration of this philosophy: use the whole product – heads for the sauce, shells for the base, flesh for the taste – in a “clear and straightforward” approach, as the chef explains.
The bonito is dressed in marine condiments and a roasted rice cream with Osciètre caviar, while the catch of the day is grilled and served with spiny artichokes in a barigoule sauce. Each dish tells the story of the Mediterranean with disarming sincerity.
Memorable desserts
While the savoury dishes have an obvious Mediterranean appeal, the desserts by Kévin Garcia and his pastry chef Vincent Delhomme are a master stroke. The strawberry, elevated in a crispy tartlet with Timut pepper, provides an explosion of flavours that reveals all the talent of this sweet brigade… with no sugar! But it’s ‘Le Gingembre’ that surprises the most: this bold dessert combines ginger, celery and misho – a Japanese fruit that is extremely rare in France – in a refreshing creation that rounds off the meal on a strikingly original note.
“It’s a bit of a gamble to call a dessert ginger,” smiles Kévin Garcia. “In the end, everyone’s very surprised, but in a good way.”
The art of entertaining without ostentation
Dining at La Table du Cap Estel means letting yourself be carried away by a magical place where you can literally eat under the stars – a rare privilege on the Riviera where light pollution is often an issue. Time seems to stand still between the rocks and the sea on this private peninsula.
The perfectly orchestrated front-of-house team guides guests through the sensory experience with remarkable skill. For those who prefer non-alcoholic drinks, the menu even includes a selection of non-alcoholic champagnes, demonstrating particular attention to new trends in responsible drinking.
Aiming for a new Côte d’Azur star
Having earned two Michelin stars at the Jules Verne, Kévin Garcia has a clear ambition for Cap Estel: “to become one of the Riviera’s foremost gastronomic addresses.” His strategy is to take his time, to build up a loyal local clientele, beyond the passing tourist trade, and share this hidden gem with the world.
Chef of the establishment’s two restaurants, he runs both La Table gastronomique du Cap Estel and Le Ficus, the relaxed summer restaurant. “Le Ficus is all about instinctive, generous cuisine. It’s about the ingredients and that’s it,” he explains. “It’s about tables full of friends, with wood-fired cooking that reminds you of family barbecues, as opposed to the more sophisticated experience at La Table.”
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“A lot of people think it’s just for hotel guests,” he says ruefully. “We are open to the public all day.” Could that accessibility soon make Cap Estel one of the most sought-after restaurants between Monaco and Nice?
Practical details: 5-course menu: €185 / 7-course menu: €220 Food and wine pairings: €85 (5 glasses) or €115 (7 glasses) Bookings: 04 93 76 29 29 Cap Estel – 1312 Avenue Raymond Poincaré, 06360 Èze-Bord-de-Mer