From Ventimiglia to Tende: a journey aboard a historic train in the heart of the Roya Valley

Landscapes, heritage, gastronomy and activities… The editorial team hopped aboard the historic train between Ventimiglia and Tende. Travel along with us in this dispatch from the journey!

The horn of a “Centoporte” locomotive echoes through Ventimiglia station. This figure from another era—a historic 1930s train model still in operation in several Italian regions—is about to depart for Tende, in the heart of the Roya Valley. Since the start of summer, these carriages have replaced the “Train of Wonders” connecting Nice to Tende—a TER line currently under renovation until the end of 2025—to showcase the landscapes and towns nestled in the valley. This initiative is part of the European ALCOTRA Vermenagna-Roya III project, which is preparing the centenary of the Cuneo–Ventimiglia–Nice line in 2028. Beyond the scenic excursion, the project carries a broader cross-border ambition: to promote sustainable and family tourism in the Roya and Vermenagna valleys, which have been weakened by natural disasters in recent years.

Tende tunnel reopens after twelve years

Under a radiant sun

On a bright morning and with a light breeze promising pleasant temperatures for the day ahead, the carriages set in motion. First stop along the Roya River: the town of Breil-sur-Roya. Inside the carriages, polished wooden benches face each other in pairs, framed by dark floral-patterned curtains. Built on a stagecoach model, each compartment has a door with a window, allowing passengers to leave their seat without going through the corridor during station stops. This feature is what earned these trains the nickname “hundred doors.”

Stop at Breil-sur-Roya

In blue uniform and cap, aviator-style glasses on his nose, the Fondazione FS conductor greets passengers settled comfortably. Patricia Balandier, a guide specialising in perched villages of the Alpes-Maritimes, follows him and announces a one-and-a-half-hour stop to explore the town of Breil-sur-Roya.

Three options are offered to travelers: a guided tour of religious buildings, a visit to the Train of Wonders ecomuseum, or free exploration. A brass band welcomes the arrival of the train at the station. We choose the third option and meet Julie, a thirty-something here to explore the village and its vaulted-porch houses. After a generous snack—a brioche croque-monsieur with brie and cooked ham—and a warm welcome at Casa Roya as suggested by our impromptu guide, we return to the train, stomachs full.

Endless panoramas

With stops at Fontan-Saorge, Saint-Dalmas-de-Tende, and La Brigue, the remainder of the journey is a timeless interlude. Windows open, breathtaking landscapes pass slowly at the train’s cruising pace. Interspersed with numerous tunnels, the view expands to perched villages, bridges, castles, a viaduct, and rivers winding through the mountains.

Tende and its heritage

The final destination, the village of Tende, lies at the gates of the Mercantour National Park and the Vallée des Merveilles, just a few kilometres from the Italian Piedmont. A visit to the Musée des Merveilles—free entry and very welcoming staff—is an excellent introduction to discovering the town and its place in local history. Once Italian, then attached to France in 1947, Tende is an ideal destination for heritage enthusiasts wishing to extend their stay beyond a day, before the historic train takes the return trip to Ventimiglia.

After consulting the Tende office, part of the Menton, Riviera & Merveilles Tourist Office, here is our selection of activities combining heritage and the outdoors:

For architecture enthusiasts

• Old Tende: 15th-century houses with slate roofs and heraldic lintels
• Chapels of the white and black penitents: Renaissance bell towers and timeless atmosphere (visits by reservation).
• Clock tower: spectacular panoramic view of the village

For foodies and outdoor lovers

• Wednesday market (8 am–1 pm): Swiss chard or potato pies, sugelli pasta, cheeses, mountain honeys.
• Mercantour National Park House: fauna, flora, route information and nature activities

For the more athletic

• The Eagle’s Round Botanical Walk: easy 1-hour loop
• Panoramic hike to Saint-Sauveur chapel (2 hours round trip, +300 m elevation gain).
  
• Comtes Lascaris Via Ferrata
• Haute Route du Sel: legendary route between France and Italy, grand panoramas (on foot, mountain bike, 4×4, motorcycle, quad bike).
• Col de Tende: 19th-century fortifications and breathtaking views to Mont Rose on clear days

The next departure of the historic train to Tende is Saturday, September 6!