Christmas comes early: Wannenes auctions treasures at Hôtel Métropole for exceptional gifts

The Italian auction house Wannenes is holding a new sale in Monaco on 3 and 4 December, featuring more than 320 lots spanning high jewellery, collector’s watches and luxury leather goods.

Founded in 2001 in Genoa, a historic centre of jewellery and goldsmithing, Wannenes has established itself as a benchmark in the European art market. With locations in Milan, Rome, Turin and Monte-Carlo, the house is preparing its winter sale on 3 and 4 December 2025, with a catalogue designed for the festive season.

Exceptional precious stones

On 3 December, 172 jewellery lots will be offered to bidders. Among them is the highlight of the catalogue, estimated at between €150,000 and €200,000: a pair of gold, silver and diamond earrings (lot 153), set with two unheated Burmese sapphires totalling nearly fifteen carats.

Another standout piece is a platinum ring set with a 15.60-carat octagonal Burmese ruby with no heat treatment (lot 152). “Rubies of this size and quality have become extremely rare. This one has a remarkably intense colour,” said Teresa Scarlata, head of the jewellery department at Wannenes, who gives it an estimate of between €80,000 and €100,000.

The catalogue also holds some fine surprises for lovers of unusual gemstones. Lot 5 features a gold and silver ring set with a 14.25-carat colour-changing sapphire from Sri Lanka. The rare curiosity shifts from blue to violet depending on the light, with no heat treatment whatsoever.

The mark of the great houses

Lovers of signed pieces will also be delighted with several historic creations. Estimated at between €60,000 and €80,000, a Van Cleef & Arpels platinum, gold and diamond bracelet (lot 100), crafted by master jeweller Louis Maruzzi, reflects the excellence of the Parisian school. “In July, we already presented a bracelet bearing Maruzzi’s hallmark. To find another piece today by this Italian jeweller based in Paris, this time signed Van Cleef & Arpels between 1925 and 1928, is truly exceptional,” the expert says enthusiastically.

Cartier will also be in the spotlight with a rare 1924 gold and platinum watch adorned with pearls and diamonds (lot 163), as well as an emerald and diamond brooch (lot 165).

Lot 88 highlights the work of Orisa, a Turin-based jeweller active between the 1930s and 1960s. The gold and diamond bracelet, estimated at between €10,000 and €15,000, bears the mark of an avant-garde creator. “Orisa was an extraordinary woman, the first in Italy to obtain a driving licence and a true businesswoman for her time. She refused to sign her creations, convinced they would be recognisable everywhere thanks to their unique style inspired by flowers and nature. And it’s true: I recognise her pieces immediately. Her clients included the Vanderbilt family and the House of Savoy,” revealed Teresa Scarlata.

The timeless elegance of Hermès

The 4 December sale will open with around forty luxury bags, led by Hermès’ most coveted creations. Among the standout pieces are a 2019 Kelly Sellier 28 in Rouge de Cœur Epsom leather, brand new and never worn, and a multicoloured Mini Kelly 20 II Limited Edition in Rouge Sellier, Mauve Pale and Black.

Legendary timepieces

Then, also on 4 December, it will be the turn of watches, with 111 lots sure to set collectors’ hearts racing. The 1979 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red” Paul Newman is one of the standout pieces, with its black dial and famous red inscription. The example on offer bears on the caseback the engraving “Phoenix Soleil”, a gift presented by that insurance company to its top agents.

Rarer still is a 1978 Rolex Submariner Milsub (lot 363), commissioned by the British Ministry of Defence in the 1970s. These military watches were generally destroyed or altered after being withdrawn from service. Finding an example in excellent, unrestored condition is nothing short of remarkable. It is estimated at between €75,000 and €90,000.

In the realm of contemporary haute horlogerie, lot 380 — a 2009 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Skeleton, of which only 156 examples are believed to have been produced — is offered at between €115,000 and €165,000. A rare pair of Cartier Bamboo Coussin watches from 1975, available in both Big Bamboo and Baby Bamboo versions, will appeal to lovers of bold designs.

Practical information

Exhibition from 30 November to 3 December, 10 am to 7 pm, in the Salon Théâtre at the Hôtel Métropole Monte-Carlo. Sales on 3 December (jewellery at 3 pm and 5:30 pm) and 4 December (bags at 11:30 am, watches at 2:30 pm). Bidding available on site, online or by telephone.