A day out in Èze Village
© Monaco Tribune
At 429 metres above sea level, Èze is one of the most beautiful hilltop villages on the Côte d’Azur. It provides breathtaking views of the Mediterranean and is famed for its cobbled streets and stone houses dating back to medieval times.
Must-sees include the botanical garden, which is topped by the ruins of an ancient castle with panoramic views, the famous Fragonard perfumery, and several gourmet restaurants whose terraces provide a stunning view.
Let us take you on a tour of this legendary village, with its culture, gastronomy and incredible vistas.
How to get there
- On foot by the Nietzsche Trail : Our more sporty readers can take the hiking trail that links Èze-sur-Mer to the village in around an hour. The path is steep, with a 400-metre vertical gain, but your efforts are rewarded with magnificent views of the coastline. Good shoes are advised, as is avoiding the hottest times of the day in summer.
- By car : Èze Village is located on the moyenne corniche road (D6007) between Nice (12 km) and Monaco (8 km). The village’s underground car park makes parking easy, but it fills up quickly in high season.
- By bus : From Monaco or Nice, take the #82 or #602 (Lignes d’Azur). The trip takes around 20 minutes and the bus drops you off at the entrance to the village.
- By train : Take the TER between Nice and Monaco, and get off at Èze-sur-Mer. From the station you can either take the #83 bus to the village, or climb up the Nietzsche path.
A village full of art
Strolling through the narrow streets of Èze is like visiting an outdoor art exhibition. There are galleries with paintings, sculptures and photographs that showcase local and international contemporary artists, such as Flow – Art Gallery, which has been open since 1975, Lagalery Fine Arts and Galerie VAL. Artistic expression has many different forms, and can be seen on the stone walls or in little studios. Some galleries have been here for decades, and attract art lovers from all over the world.
A food lovers’ village
You cannot visit Èze Village without trying out one of its exceptional restaurants. Tucked away in the medieval streets or perched on high, overlooking the Mediterranean, a number of restaurants serve refined cuisine with local produce and, of course, that breathtaking view!
Among them, La Chèvre d’Or is the epitome of gastronomic excellence. This two-star restaurant, renowned in the region and abroad, offers an extraordinary culinary experience, with dishes that look like works of art, and spectacular sea views.
Its 5-star hotel is also one of the most prestigious on the Côte d’Azur. Château de la Chèvre d’Or is now open.
For a more affordable but equally tasty break, head over to Le Nid d’Aigle. Just a stone’s throw from the exotic garden, this friendly restaurant is ideal for a lunch on the terrace. It serves local specialities such as grilled octopus tentacles, Provençal focaccia with cod, generous omelettes and fresh pasta. The drinks menu also features non-alcoholic cocktails, including a refreshing iced lemon and a subtle blend of rose, grenadine and grapefruit that we recommend! The adult menu costs 32 euros.
Another village landmark is Château Eza, which combines luxury accommodation with Michelin-starred gastronomy. Situated on the cliffside, the former castle has been converted into a hotel, with several rooms offering sea views. Its gourmet restaurant boasts a Michelin star and serves Mediterranean cuisine.
Whether in the dining room, with its large bay windows, or on the panoramic terrace, the sea view is simply magical. If you don’t want to dine there, you can still enjoy a drink on the terrace while taking in the panoramic views.
The Botanical Garden
Situated at the top of the village, Èze’s botanical garden is a lush green haven ‘twixt sky and sea. Built around the ruins of an ancient medieval fortress, it offers exceptional panoramic views at an altitude of 429 metres. On a clear day, you can even see Corsica on the horizon.
The garden is home to an impressive collection of exotic plants, including cacti, agaves and aloes. Throughout, explanatory panels tell you more about these species, which are suited to arid climates. The tour follows a path that goes up and down and leads to different viewpoints overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and the village of Èze.
A “Zen area” to the west of the garden is an invitation to relax. Surrounded by waterfalls and vegetation, the peaceful spot is perfect for recharging your batteries and appreciating the natural beauty of the gardens. Admission is €5 until 31 March. From 1 April to 31 October, the full price is €7. The teenager and student rate is €4, and guided tours cost €15 (booking essential).
The Fragonard laboratory factory
Inaugurated in 1968, the Fragonard laboratory is a must-see, where the art of perfumery and cosmetics blends with the history of the region.
Located at the foot of the Rocher d’Èze, the factory is a veritable perfume temple. During our visit, we got the chance to meet Cyprien Fabre, Fragonard’s sales director, who explained the fascinating history of Fragonard and walked us through the different stages involved in creating the fragrances.
Fragonard selects flowers from all over the Grasse region, as well as from different parts of the world. Flowers that are endemic to the region, such as the May rose, jasmine and lavender, are the main sources of the essential oils used in Fragonard fragrances. This year, Fragonard is celebrating lemon blossom.
The first stage in the process is to extract the essential oils, a traditional process that uses stills and other distillation techniques.
Once the essential oils have been extracted, the next stage is the creation of the perfume. Here, the artisan perfumer, also known as the nose, composes the perfume by blending the different notes (the top, middle and base notes).
The perfume creation workshop has a ‘perfume organ’, a piece of furniture on which all the essences that are required for the composition are arranged. It can take several years of research to create the perfect fragrance.
On the floor above, we also visited Fragonard’s cosmetics laboratory. This is where the brand develops its face and body care ranges, such as the royal jelly face cream. The creams, shower gels and scented oils are made using essential oils extracted from local flowers.
Fragonard also specialises in the manufacture of solid perfumes, scented creams with a higher concentration than eau de toilette. Another interesting aspect of the visit is how Fragonard soaps are made. These scented soaps go through a meticulous manufacturing process, with soap granules being mixed with essential oils then shaped, pressed and packaged.
The tour concludes in the sales lounge, where all the brand’s products are on display: perfumes, soaps, scented candles, diffusers and cosmetics. A perfect opportunity to take away a fragrant souvenir of your visit to Èze.
Our favourite: the emblematic Fragonard fragrance (new version). The fragrance blends notes of hyacinth and lily of the valley, along with jasmine and orange blossom, and finishes with woody touches of cedar. A real treat for those who prefer floral fragrances!
Visits to the laboratory factory are free of charge. There are guided tours throughout the day. For perfume lovers, Fragonard runs several workshops (from 29 euros) where you can dive into the world of perfume creation: the “Petit Parfumeur” (Little Perfumer) workshop and the “Apprenti Parfumeur” (Apprentice Perfumer) workshop tenable you to learn about composition techniques and create your own fragrance. Workshops take place at the Èze-Village factory, booking is essential.